Another gem found in the heart of Cairo



Prince Said Halim's Palace on Champollion Street is the "new" gem to be found just the other day.
Just another beautiful building passed day and night by millions of people unaware of it's true beauty located just around the corner.
I myself have passed this place dozens of time never noticing anything more then old posters hanging from it's walls and recent revolution inspired graffitti adding to it's aging exterior.
Sitting in traffic I happened to look up at the wall and noticed Roman inspired columns, Baroque overlays wrapping around the corners and angels faces peering down at the passersby.
"What is that?!?" Was what came out of my mouth as my jaw dropped open and the sounds of honking horns grew louder behind me. I still had 1 hour before the sun went down so I decided to explore....and wow, what a treasure!
Walking around the corner I was met by Ahmed, the Bowab of the property who welcomes you warmly to view the property, only with the promise of backsheesh at the end. Hah! Egypt. Love it.
The structure, design, and hints of royalty in grand old Cairo was breathtaking. The colors and detail of the ceilings, crown moldings, woodwork, doors, and not to mention the Ballroom's grand staircase are just a few things to mention when viewing. It is a must see for any Cairene history buffs!
This is a link to the article I found that expalins the details of it's history and the plans that never camr to fruition for restoration. :( I hope one day someone does recognize it's importance and relevance to Cairo's lost history. http://weekly.ahram.org.eg/2005/770/fe3.htm

 

The Forbidden Baladi Bar Map!!!!!!!!!!!!

Finding a restaurant, bar, "liquor" store that serves acohol is not the easiest thing to do in Cairo is it?
This is a Muslim dominated country but it is definitely not dry. Alcohol is just kept moderately available and the demographic of finding a place that does serve it can be very different. Either on the high end of dining, 5 star hotels, with a price tag to match, etc. Or, wandering through the streets of Cairo, looking for the luring Stella sign posted outside of a conspicuous doorfront.
Heineken bottling brand runs all alcoholic businesses, buyers and makers in Egypt so Heineken is the only beer available that is considered, "Western." Stella and Saqqara are the most popular varieties of Egyptian Beer. Stella is comparable to Corona or Budweiser. Saqqara is a malt beverage, so, Old English fans, have at it!
For wine, unless you are at a 5 star hotel, you will only find wine made in Egypt, by the only winery in the country, Gianaclis. Their sparkling wine is decent, the white wine is good when super chilled on a hot night, and their reds need some work, but not bad for a table wine. The winery itself has tours and tastings that run for 150LE with reservations only.
And as for the hard liquor........the only drinkable spirit I have found is the brand I.D.. It has straight Vodka, which I equate to Smirnoff, and then their fruit juice blends similiar to Smirnoff Ice. My fav is Watermelon but it comes in many different flavors: Pineapple, Green Apple, Lime, Lemon......
When looking for any other kind of spirit such as Rum, Gin, or Tequila, you will find the Egyptian brands that ARE NOT WORTH putting yourself through the next day's extreme hangover.  If alcohol must be a part of your Egyptian vacation here are a few tips:

• When you arrive at Duty-free in the airport, BUY BOOZE!
• Or, plan on visiting a shop within 48 hours of arrival within Cairo with your passport and your airline ticket stub! 2 bottle minimum with all the major Western brands.
• Drinkies is the Liquor Store chain in Egypt and can be found in all the major cities in Egypt.
• Luxor Liquors is a store located downtown around the corner from the Egyptian Museum. Most taxis should be able to take you to it.
• For a large bottle of Stella, prices range from 15 LE up to 30LE.
• Drinks and glasses of wine start at about 35LE and up. 

This is the link to the Baladi Bars in Cairo. It is very helpful in EVERY way. Not just to drink but also to see where there may be bellydancing, shisha, prices on Stellas (which is important because you can than judge the quality of place), open during Ramadan, woman friendly, minimum charge, etc etc etc!
Odeon bar is my absolute favorite (love the terrace!) and Stella bar comes in next, a little FYI!

There are definitely other places like I said, Cairo Jazz Bar, After Eight Club, Purple Club and all the clubs along the Nile, but they are pricey and sometimes you don't really want all the Pomp and Circumstance!
Just a beer! Baladi bars are a fun way to experience the local life, and meet a few new friends.
For a large bottle of Stella, prices range from 15 LE up to 30LE.
Have fun, drink responsibly and respect your surroundings


http://www.baladibar.com/main_broadband.html

City of the Dead, Cairo

 Walking through the dusty roads of the cemetary otherwise known as the City of the Dead, I encountered many families living among the tombs and mausoleums as well as small shops and food vendors. The people there were very helpful in helping me finding my sites and some offered to show me some of the tombs in private structures where only family members are allowed.

The equisite examples of Mamluk architecture and the mosque of Farag, the tomb of Barquq , the mosque and tomb of Barsbey, and the madrassa and mausoleum of the Sultan Qait Bey were awe inspiring.

This is not usually pointed out to tourists visiting Cairo, but if you do have the time to explore, I highly reccommend this city within the city!

This was a post I found just before trekking into the City of the Dead today. It has great information about the history and he, Goutam Mitra from Clacutta, has been named as one of the top travel writers according to Virtual Tourist!

City of the Dead (Qarafa, Arafa) is a four mile long cemetery from northern to southern part of Cairo, Egypt. To the people of Cairo and other Egyptians, it is simply el'arafa which means "the cemetery". It is a bustling grid of tombs and mausoleums where people live and work amongst their dead and ancestors. Many residents live here to be near their loved ones, or because they were forced from more crowded areas in Cairo and 60s immigration from countryside. In fact many came from their villages simply looking for work — a good example of rural to urban migration in an LEDC.
Its foundation dates back to the Arab conquest of Egypt in 642 AD. The Arab commander, Amr ibn al As, founded the first Egyptian Arab capital, the city of Al Fustat, and established his family’s graveyard at the foot of the hill al Moqattam. The other tribes buried their dead within the living quartiers. The following Arab dinasties built own political citadel northwards to the previous, founding a new graveyard every time. The Great Qarafa and the Lesser Qarafa (the commander’s family cemetery) have been inhabiting since the first centuries after the conquest. Its first resident nucleus consisted of the custodians to noble graves and the staff in charge of the burial service as well as the Sufi mystics in their khawaniq (colleges). During the Fatimid Caliphate, because of their Shi’ite faith, the sovereigns supported pilgrimages to Ahl al Bayt (Prophet’s family) shrines as part of their politics. These pilgrimages increased the cemetery’s habitat in order to provide pligrims’ needs. The following sultan, Salah el Din, in order to unify all the four capitals within a surrounding wall, included both cemeteries in an unique urban space. The next Mamluk rulers, originally freed slaves forming a military caste, founded a new graveyard named Sahara, because of its deserted environment, outside the city at its north-eastern border. It was also a place for military parades, such as tournaments and investiture ceremonies, as well as for processions, at which sultan and nobles took part during the religious celebrations. So that many of them built their palaces on the main road of the cemetery in order to assist to the spectacles.

The Giza Zoo in Cairo

One random junket this year was to the Giza Zoo. Located just off the Kubry Al-Gama bridge, it is about 80 acres of "wildlife" viewing for all ages. Because of it's size, this has become a popular destination for families to spend the day and let their children wander about and play freely as the usual playground of Cairo's busy streets are not so child friendly. Try to remember, this is a third world country, developing and now going through one of the roughest times post-revolution. It is not as clean as you would expect a national park to be. The pens that are vacant are filled with rubbish, overgrown and down right dirty. If you are a proactive animal rights supporter, we do not reccommmend this trip.
The Zoo has been open since 1891 and has a limited variety of animals to see. The exhibit of cats, literally house cats, and a dog, again a common house pet according to Western standards, was a little shocking. A little backsheesh here and there to the keepers will get you some really close encounters with the animals. The gardens have potential, but are not well kept and there is a a beautiful suspended bridge that has significant historical value as it was actually built by G. Eiffel. The one and only creator of that famous tower in Paris.
Although this may not be the most up-to-date and modern zoo to visit in the world, it is still gives the visitor a chance to see regional wildlife and a slower pace from the norm of Cairo. You, the tourist, may also become part of the viewing for locals. ;)

http://www.gizazoo-eg.com/

8.30AM To 5PM / April - September

8.30AM To 4PM / October - March

Koshary and Abou Tarek

Egypt's one and only traditional food and Cairo's #1 place to eat it!
Koshary is a carb loaded, tomatoey, spicy and well seasoned bowl of goodness with just as many textures as ingredients. Let's see........chickpeas, black lentils, rice, pasta (at least 3 different types depending on where you go), tomatoe sauce, garlic vinegar, spiced salt, harissa and fried onions to top it off.  This clearly is a product of years time, dating back to the spice trails coming from around the world. Readily available ingredients, put together to satisfy hungry travelers with very little to no money.
The modern day Koshary establishment serves countless Egyptians from dusk to dawn. No need for a menu, your belly will decide that for you. Small, medium or large portions. That's it. No frills, just food.
Abou Tarek is one of the oldest koshary restaurants in Cairo, serving maybe millions of people since 1950.
Definitely a must when in Cairo!
You can find Abou Tarek in Downtown, 16 Maarouf-Shamplion Street.
202-25775935 / 202-25761911 is their number if you have any further questions!
Here is a link from you tube, Anthony Bourdain graced Egypt with his presence and his view on Koshary and About Tarek.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxfUayZtEIo

Junket- a pleasure excursion

Life- the power of adaptation to environment through changes originating internally.